July - August 2014

1880s Bonnet

This hat was made with Miller's Millinery "Bebe Bonnet" pattern. There are a few early 1880s bonnets in English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century with similar shapes. It's covered and lined in silk shantung. A surprisingly well-matched cotton sateen ribbon is pleated around the brim, and it ties with a black silk satin ribbon.

Early in the construction process I discovered that the pattern doesn't include wire in the crown's tip. So I pulled out a Lynn McMasters's bonnet pattern as a reference and ended up redrafting nearly all the seam allowances. I'm very glad I did. The bonnet is structurally more stable and will fare better in storage as well. As an experiment, I skipped the flannel padding but did add bias tape. (Mulling and tape are also not a part of the pattern's instructions). As a result, there's some show-through of the seam allowances. If I make the bonnet again I might mull a couple of key areas.

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