1830s Corded Corset

2009 edit:

Yet another unworn corset. I have to admit I never did a proper muslin on this one. It wasn't until the corset was nearly complete that I really discovered the problem. The pattern itself went together fine and seemed to be sized correctly. But there are no vertical seams: the bust and hip gores provide all the shaping. Consequently, I had buckling around the waist. I believe this corset would work for me if I were to add just one, maybe two side seams for shaping.

I wanted to try putting together a more appropriate set of underwear for early 19th C costumes. This was my attempt at a corded corset. It's Past Pattern's #001, 1830-1840 Stays, View A, in coutil, lined in cotton, with a wooden busk.

I actually know others who have had great success with this pattern, making it both for themselves and friends. But I found it extremely difficult to fit. The body of the corset is only one pattern piece: all the shaping is achieved with the gores. I was never happy with my results. I ended up with some significant wrinkling across the waistline. Perhaps if I had tried "View B," a more heavily corded corset with separate back panels, I would have had better luck. If I were to try my hand at another corded corset, I'd certainly select a pattern with some vertical seams, and probably even add a couple of steel stays for support.

I had a few construction issues, too. First, the armholes are quite curved and my fabric was stretching open there, pulling the corset together at the top. I ended up "filling in" the armholes with pieces of coutil. I also experimented with white eyelets, to imitate bone. They're very attractive, but the white color is a coating over brass. This makes the eyelets fit very tightly, and grommeting chips off the coating. Finally, I tried binding the corset with medium weight linen cut on the straight grain. This worked okay on the bottom edge. But the top, with all it's corners and curves, was just a big mess, so I re-did it with bias tape.

On the other hand, I found the gores relatively easy to sew thanks to Katherine's fantastic instructions. At least that part went smoothly. Still, the corset involved quite a bit of hand sewing and a lot of difficult threading of cords through channels. It was the most labor-intensive one I've made.

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