2009 edit:

This corset never fit quite as well as my LM Dore. Other than a few trial outings in 2005 it's sat in a box. The waist is a good fit but both bust and hips ran larger than I expected, based on the sizing. I still think it's a very nice pattern. I would just need to make some alterations before trying it again.

Past Pattern's #213, Victorian Corset circa 1898. Silk charmeus flat-lined on a single layer of coutil.

The pattern seemed to fit me perfectly, without any adjustments. But what really made this corset project go smoothly was some construction advice I got from a seamstress. Her assembly method is to first sew up the coutil layer. Next create boning channels by sewing all the seam allowances flat, 1/4" from each seam. The stays fit perfectly into the channels, plus they're enclosed in a double layer of coutil. There is no lining, which cuts down on bulk and time. But I did create facings a couple of inches wide, for the busk and grommet edges.