Collar and Cuffs

July – September 2025

A set of hand sewn, fine linen collar and cuffs, trimmed in The Tudor Tailor reproduction “Schole-house” lace. The collar is based on garment #40 in Patterns of Fashion 4, a falling band circa 1640-45. A similar collar dated 1630-45, can be found on p.25 of Cut of Men’s Clothes 1600-1900. The cuffs are patterned after the 1630-35 linen cuffs in Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns. They are a simple rectangles with tiny 1/8″ darts.

The collars in both POF4 and Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns have lace trim which is eased with gathers around the corners. Initially I gave this a try, but it was a failed experiment. A single pleat was a much better solution. The cuffs were trimmed by simply snipping the lace between motifs, at the corners, allowing it to be turned 90 degrees.

Portrait of a Boy with a Hat, by Unknown Northern European artist, ca. 1633