July – September 2025
A set of hand sewn, fine linen collar and cuffs, trimmed in The Tudor Tailor reproduction “Schole-house” lace. The collar is based on garment #40 in Patterns of Fashion 4, a falling band circa 1640-45. A similar collar dated 1630-45, can be found on p.25 of Cut of Men’s Clothes 1600-1900. The cuffs are patterned after the 1630-35 linen cuffs in Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns. They are a simple rectangles with tiny 1/8″ darts.
The collars in both POF4 and Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns have lace trim which is eased with gathers around the corners. Initially I gave this a try, but it was a failed experiment. A single pleat was a much better solution. The cuffs were trimmed by simply snipping the lace between motifs, at the corners, allowing it to be turned 90 degrees.
In the example below, the linen is likely starched. However the 1620s-30s images on which I modeled Aaron’s outfit, show many examples of lace cuffs draping loosely, in the ‘relaxed cavalier style.’
