July – December 2024
A sheer white dress from Wearing History’s 1916 Eloise pattern. I had just the right fabric available: 100% cotton embroidered lawn. Some of the yardage had already been used for a dirndl blouse and an 18th century apron & neckerchief, so I knew how it behaved. Having seen the pattern made up successfully by other costumers, it seemed like a good one to try. This was a new era for me as the silhouette and construction are different from anything else I’ve sewn.
These 1910s dress closures are famously complicated. This pattern doesn’t even have a lining but I still took my time puzzling over the instructions and decided to do a few things differently. Namely, my skirt opens at the side rather than center back. Also, to simplify construction the internal petersham waistband circles all the way around the bodice, overlaps at center front, and ends at the side seam. This was done to make the waist adjustable. (At least in theory…it would still be a good bit of work to alter). The skirt pattern is a big rectangle and my fabric was 52″ wide, so I used two panels. A bit more hem circumference than is suggested. The biggest change I made to the pattern was the armscye. It was very high and snug (not unexpected for this era).
In these photos I’m wearing my usual Edwardian underthings, but with two late 1910s petticoats. A two-toned purple silk charmeuse sash, originally made to go with the 1920 chiffon dress, was worn. The hat is from my 1920 black and white ensemble. Now it has purple flowers. The 1860s purple jewelry set goes well. I like purple.
